Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Guest Editor: Stop the Melting Make-Up

Yeppers, you now know it is summer down-under. And aren't I glad about it! This evening I will be completing the all-important task of banishing all my winter clothes to Wardrobe Siberia in order that I may bask in the glow of open-toed shoes and flimsy dresses. Hooray!

An important summer consideration that must be addressed BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE is the issue of melting make-up.

I know I've mentioned excellent new product Panda Eyes before, but I think we should also keep in mind the expert advice of Zoe Foster. Oh how we love her! And nice work to Ally who totally stalked her in New York. THAT is what I like to see! Although I do wish you'd been able to speak to her to tell her about Project Romance doing the rounds! Where is it, actually? Do we know?

Anyway. These are Zoe's wise words on melty, summer make-up.


When I am Going Out, I don’t use my face cream under my makeup, but I definitely use primer. This is for three reasons:

1. Too much moisturiser and eye cream can make the makeup slide off, and get up into the eyes and smudge things and irritate. Also, it can make foundation appear to sit on top of the skin, rather than melt in all flawless like.

2. My face cream has SPF 30 in it, which is not required at night, and can make the face look washed out in photos.

3. I use a moisturising primer instead, (Napoleon Perdis AutoPilot – gawjus), which does a great job hydrating and more importantly, will keep my makeup locked into place, instead of sinking into my hungry skin.


I say this because I often see friends using their sheer, day-time foundation or tinted moisturiser at night, and then become surprised when it doesn’t last, or when the rest of their makeup becomes overly accentuated by comparison. I keep one more-coverage, stay-put foundation for night (Revlon PhotoReady or Becca Foundation Stick), which I either use solo if I really need a full face of makeup, (say, a theatrical, smokey eye and bronzed cheeks) or blend with my sheer, daily foundation (Bobbi Brown Luminous) if I am doing more of a bright lip, say. It not only stays there nicely all night, but it acts as a terrific canvas for all of the colour cosmetics to sit on and really let their true pigments come through. (Make sure you use concealer too, over the eyelids included.)


This is a simple move, but a very worthwhiley one. You don’t even need to do it with all of them, sometimes I can only be bothered to do the cheeks, because to me, blush is what makes me feel most ‘done’ when everything else falls apart.

If you want that slap to really, R E A L L Y last:

Apply liquid foundation – set with loose powder (once you’ve applied all your other colour makeup – ESPECIALLY – important if you like a dewy look, because they never last, sadly, and loose powder keeps the glow but keeps it in place, too. I like Laura Mercier’s Loose Setting Powder very much)
Apply creme blush with fingers – set with similar toned blush on a fluffy brush dabbed on top
Apply creme eye shadow with finger – set with powder eye shadow. (I highly recommend this step. A lot)


I am enchanted with bright orangey-red lips very much while over here in NYC (no one does better bright lip work than NYC girls, I am convinced of it – I saw the most magnificent lilac purple matte lip on a Rad Girl with short dark hair and a smattering of freckles today, by gads it was exciting. It’s like a living Nylon magazine here), but as we are all too aware theredline, they are a shit to maintain. So, I always start by filling in the lips with a lip texta or stain (Max Factor Lipfinity Lasting Lip Tint 07 – the top one – for a peachy tone; Revlon Just Bitten gothic for red) and then brushing on my lipstick with a lip brush over that. Really lasts.


You don’t need to bring your whole makeup kit out, and applying a full face after four vodkas won’t look too crash hot anyway, toots. A foundation stick that doubles as concealer (to cover spots and keep the undereyes looking fresh and clean), some cream blush to liven up pasty-drunk-face, eye liner to re-do and re-sex-up the waterline and your lip product is it, I reckon. And some perfume, obviously. It’s sex appeal in a vial, you turkey! Take it with you at all times!


I can’t say why, but for some reason, the less shots of tequila I have, the less rank my makeup tends to go. Weird, huh. The other night, at this dive bar in Brooklyn, I had – and I hope you’re not eating as you read this – a pickle juice chaser after my shot of tequila. It’s what we’re famous for, the bartender said as he poured me a shot of the vile brew. It’s disgusting, I said, secretly thrilled that it took away the sting of the tequila but hating the briney flavour. My best ever tequila shot – and ask for it if you remember next time – was with cinnamon in place of salt, and orange in place of lemon. Legitimately tasty.

The primer and the powder will make the most difference if you’re too lazy to do all of it.


Naturally, I do NOT agree with the final point re tequila.

Of course, if all else fails... Whack on some sunglasses.

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